To quote my lovely local friend Thu, after passing my Vietnamese lifetime motorbike license driving test last Saturday, “Now you are legally Vietnamese girl 100%.” The completion of the Figure 8 with a camera mounted to the front of the motorbike staring you directly in the face and a little box digitally clicking down your score for every mistake is no small feat. According to my friend Rose who has been here in Da Nang for 2+ years, I may be the only legally licensed driver she knows here. Excuse me while I brush my shoulders off.
The Vietnamese government is cracking down on unlicensed drivers and drunk drivers with checkpoints throughout the city. I am quietly living for the day when I am stopped and can whip out my license knowing they can’t confiscate my bike or assess any fines. More importantly, my health/travel insurance doesn’t cover any road accidents unless I am licensed. I’m street legal and covered. Watch out Vietnam!
My shine from my motorbike test success on Saturday hasn’t yet dimmed. I presented the first chapter of my book to my Pens and Criticism circle on Sunday evening. When I began at Texas Tech many moons ago, I started with a major in Creative Writing. My junior year was when we had to begin submitting our writings for peer critique and my poor young spirit just couldn’t take it. I withdrew from the Creative Writing program and changed my focus to English Literature and Language. I had so many credits in the English department it seemed foolish to start all over, so that allowed me to stay on track with a timely graduation and not have to wound my tender soul. Would my life had been different had I strengthened my backbone and stuck with it, maybe, but better late than never.
The input I received from the group was invaluable. I feel like once the revisions are completed my first chapter will be elevated beyond anything, I could have hoped for it. The writing community I have found here has gone a long way in making me feel that at this moment, in this place, I am right where I am meant to be. I have already scheduled my date to resubmit with corrections made. I have a strong start and am well on my way.
I rounded out the end of the weekend/beginning of the week with a sweet message sent through the blog. I have posted a photo of it below. If you sent this message I would love to connect with you personally. Please reach back out. I very much want to know who my mysterious encourager is so I can thank them properly!
I rolled into Monday to find my corner breakfast spot/coffee shop closed for Tet. I knew it was coming, but I didn’t realize Monday would be the first day of their ten-day closure. Monday was the last day of my Pilates until the beginning of February and the gym closed for a week on Wednesday. Tet is Vietnam’s biggest holiday of the year. It is like our Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s all rolled into one. It centers around the Lunar New Year and is an all-out week of celebrating with family and friends. Many businesses around town close to allow staff to enjoy the tradition of returning home to their villages to spend time with family.
Many expats also travel during the holiday. Business and school closings allow time off for exploration. I have friends traveling to Korea, Australia and Bali to name a few. For me, Tet is the perfect time to marvel at this place. Families go all out decorating their homes with flowers and kumquat trees. Vietnamese flags adorn houses and businesses throughout town. End of year parties fill the streets with the fragrance of traditional Vietnamese dishes and the sounds of drunken karaoke. The city is alive with festive sights and sounds.
At the end of last week, I took a trip to Mega Market to do a little stocking up before things began to close for Tet holiday. It was a madhouse. Imagine Central Market the day before Christmas on steroids. I wish I had stopped and asked the couple I saw with 14 cases of Budweiser in their cart if I could take a photo. They were definitely Tet professionals! I told some old-timer friends here about my experience at the market, and they laughed. One said he wasn’t sure if my positive attitude about the situation is because I am new or because that’s just who I am. It is nice to be reminded that people here don’t quite know me yet.
Even after nearly a decade, Austin never lost its wonder. Whenever I would reach the crest of the last hill on South First Street just before Barton Springs Road, I would smile to myself knowing that this was my life. The branches of the old growth oak trees grew into a beautiful canopy over the street, and the capitol building shone in the distance like a beacon in the middle of hectic downtown. It was a sight that will forever be imprinted in my mind. Sunsets on Lake Austin with the 360 Bridge on the horizon and the flavor of a bowl of chili at The Texas Chili Parlor will forever be my definition of magic.
If I continue to operate from a place of gratefulness, Da Nang will prove no different. I expect to forever feel ignited and inspired when I drive my motorbike over the large bridge that crosses the Da Nang Port and the Lady Buddha comes into view on the horizon. I imagine that I will soon be able to immediately recall the warm fuzzy feeling I have when the ocean air breezes past me as I drive the beach road between Da Nang and Hoi An, the spicy kick of the broth at my favorite My Quang spot or the burning sensation in my throat when my neighbor offers me an occasional shot of Vietnamese whiskey. I never expect this place to lose its extra-ordinary feeling. I expect the sights and situations that sparked initial awe will continue to amaze because whatever was originally different or special will always be different or special as long as I am willing to appreciate and remember.
All of the festivities and marvel of this week also bring with it a heavy dose of reality. No matter how much I try my best to assimilate — getting my license, participating in local traditions, practicing the language — I am a guest here. My life here is totally at the discretion and grace of the Vietnamese government and the country’s immigration laws. The Vietnamese Expat Facebook groups are abuzz with possible changes to the immigration laws that go into effect in July of 2020. These new laws are aimed at cutting down illegal working by foreigners here in Vietnam.
Currently, I am residing here on a one year multiple entry visa. This means that I can come and go from the country as I please for one year without having to apply for a new visa. However, as a condition of my visa, I still must leave and re-enter the country every ninety days. The new regulations would require that I leave and re-enter the country every thirty days, even with the one year visa. I still do not fully understand what exactly is happening, all of the questions on Facebook and constant conversations with other foreigners living and working in Vietnam I am not the only one who is confused. It will remain to be seen what will happen with the immigration laws and that will determine how hospitable Vietnam remains to be for foreigners.
A requirement to leave and re-enter the country every thirty days makes the cost and convenience of staying out of my realm. However, I will continue to act as if, as if I will be offered a full-time job or a sponsorship for a temporary residency card making the new regulations no longer applicable to my situation. I came to Vietnam planning to make a life here for an extended and undetermined amount of time. That is still very much my goal. So, when my dear friend Rachel arrives in less than a month to be my first visitor in this new country that I call my home, she will bring with her a six month supply of my favorite toothpaste and five bottles of Austin made Yellow Bird hot sauce. When my chance comes to stick around without any hassle, I will be prepared to take it!
