The days were passing quickly and soon the 5 weeks of Carley’s time in Vietnam would come to an end. She and I had made fast friends with Thu Pham, a Vietnamese local who invited us to Saigon to attend the wedding of one of her best friends. Although it was the last weekend before Carley’s departure, we jumped at the chance. Carley, Thu and I flew to Saigon a day ahead of being joined by Peter and Thu’s boyfriend, John. This trip would include a traditional Vietnamese wedding and a trip to stay with Thu’s family on their cashew farm.
Thu had attended University in Saigon and had lived there for some time after graduation, so she was very familiar with the city. After landing we made our way to check into the Airbnb located in District 4 of the sprawling city. The high rise condo rivaled any you might see in downtown Austin. The built in enameled cabinets, marble countertops and ornate furnishings could have been plucked out of a center spread in Architectural Digest.
After unpacking and freshening up Thu took us on an adventure looking for street food. It wasn’t quite an adventure because she knew right where to look. Had Carley and I been on our own I doubt it would have been nearly as easy or comfortable. We ventured into a small walkway near the city center and found numerous stalls full of delicious smells and unfamiliar sights lining both sides of the alley. As we were surveying the offerings it began to rain. To call it rain is putting it politely. The skies above opened up and pounded us with an unforgiving downpour. The sky was clear and the sun bright when we left the condo, so we neglected to bring any of our rain gear. We were really in it now. If it wasn’t for the quick removal of sandals and rolling up of pant legs, you would have hardly known the locals cooking up the food were even aware it was raining. Everything continued on just as it had been before the deluge, only barefoot.
We had already ordered and were sitting waiting for our food at the shin high tables — that had over the last 5 weeks become more than familiar and comfortable. As we sat waiting water rose up to our ankles and the tarp above us became pregnant with rain promising to give birth to a table soaking swell at any moment. I sat there just knowing the small scrape I had on the top of my foot was being bombarded by all manner of unknown bacteria. Some new experiences are not for the faint of heart or the immune compromised. Our food finally arrived, and we ate in relatively dry comfort aside from the occasional scooting of my tiny stool to escape a steady drip. The noodle dish Thu had suggested we try helped to make the drama of the entire scene worth it. It was so delicious in fact that we were happy to continue soaking our feet in bacteria infested waters while we waited for another order to take back to our condo.
When the rain temporarily subsided, we made our way back down the alley and onto the street to catch a taxi. It was just after 5pm on a Friday and the streets of Saigon were teeming with life. The rain didn’t help with the ease of hailing a taxi. Unable to find any available cars we ordered a Grab and found a dry spot under a tiny awning while we waited for him to come to our rescue. After watching him make the block more than once on the overcrowded streets and numerous back and forth calls with Thu, our hero arrived. We headed back to the respite of our Airbnb a bit unsure of Saigon.
I made sure to call the first shower and immediately set to washing my feet with soap. After cleaning up, calming down and eating our takeaway foods, the rain had stopped, and we decided to venture out once again. In both Saigon and life in general the motto of if at first you don’t succeed…proves to be helpful.
We ventured to the Nguyen Hue Café Apartment and found the city that turned to sheer rush hour madness in the middle of the rain had settled into a weekend evening groove. We wandered the 9 floors of the building finally settling on some sweet treats at Partea. We sat on the balcony and watched the crowded walking street scene below. It reminded me of the Campo de Fiori from my time in Italy. There were young people sitting in small circles chatting the night away, street performers earning their tips and lovers strolling hand in hand stealing kisses from one another. After what we had seen earlier it was all unexpected but absolutely perfect. We finished our pastries and ventured down to the walking street to take it all in at eye level. After a few blocks we called a car and returned to our home for the night with a higher opinion of Saigon than we had, had just a few hours prior.
Early the next morning Thu left to attend to her place in the wedding ceremony. A traditional Vietnamese wedding is an all-day affair with activities early in the morning, afternoon ceremonies and nighttime parties. Carley and I slept in and when Thu returned, we all took a nice break at the spa complete with a massage and a facial before coming back to dress for the wedding reception.
The three of us ladies, joined by Peter and John made our way to the wedding. The wedding reception was held in a wedding events center with three celebrations taking place simultaneously downstairs and two more upstairs. From what I could tell the four of us were the only foreigners in the entire building which garnered quite a few stares and smiles.
I wore a simple dress I had purchased a few weeks earlier in Hoi An and my 3 inch platform wedges. Standing flat footed at 5’9” I typically tower over the Vietnamese locals in my sneakers and my heels made me right at 6’ tall. Peter and John both measure in at over 6’ and Carley at an average American height of 5’6” still finds herself often a head taller than most locals. This difference was made quite apparent when walking down the small hallway to the bathroom at the venue. I could stand in my heels with my hand on my head and touch the ceiling without standing on my tip-toes. It was certainly not at standard American building height clearance and made for both a fun and funny photo opportunity.
The reception was beautiful and not unlike a typical reception in the US. There was a video presentation, toasts to the couple, so much food and free flowing drinks. I cried during the toasts at the overwhelming love I felt in the room. I had learned from Thu that the bride’s mother had passed relatively recently, and my heart ached for her father unable to share the stage with his wife/her mother while these special well wishes were said. Love and heartache are universal truths no matter where you are in the world.
There was a ballet performance, while unlike anything I had ever seen at a wedding, was absolutely gorgeous. There was also a stunning 5-tiered wedding cake. I sat patiently through 7 courses of food with my eyes fixed firmly on the cake only to find out that it was Styrofoam and would not be served. Instead our meal was finished with the traditional Vietnamese lychee sweet soup, which is delicious, but certainly not wedding cake.
After the wedding Carley, Thu and I went out to a local bar with some of Thu’s old friends from Saigon. I stuck with them for one drink then joined Peter out on Bui Vien walking street for some fun until the wee hours of the morning. Based on the next level Bourbon Street vibe it would be better called Bui Vien stumbling street. Peter and I danced the night away and whenever we took a moment to catch our breath, we met other travelers from all over the world. We bar hopped with a couple from Argentina, sat and visited with some guys from the UK and jumped around with a group of co-workers from the Philippines taking a break from their team building conference. There was so much excitement that it ended up being a night I will never forget although with the amount I had to drink I should not actually remember.
The next day we traveled about 3 hours outside of Saigon to Thu’s family’s cashew farm. Thu, Carley and John traveled in a bus while Peter and I took a motorbike. Our ride was pretty uneventful outside of having to stop a few times to suit up with our ponchos to avoid rain. We stopped at a few roadside stores to refuel with drinks and snacks. At one I purchased some chocolate candies wrapped in brightly colored foil and shaped like fish to share with the local children playing outside of the store. From the way they reacted to us and the surroundings, I assumed they did not often see foreign travelers and found us to be a funny sight. At first the children were hesitant to take the candy from me. Strangers with candy — another universal truth, but an older lady who reminded me of my grandmother happily came up and took one letting the kids know it was safe. Once they had her stamp of approval, they were more than happy to take plenty of chocolates.
Along the way Peter pointed out important signs to look for when I was ready to take the leap and begin exploring Vietnam on a motorbike of my own. Nha Nghi – guesthouse. Rua Xe – motorbike repair. Com – rice/food. The wedding was beautiful and the time with Thu’s family was so welcoming, but any time spent on a motorbike will always be my favorite. We stopped just before our arrival to pick up beer for Thu’s father and flowers for her mother. Texas rules of hospitality to never arrive empty handed extend to all corners of the world.
When we arrived at Thu’s family home, we were greeted warmly with snacks of cashews and banana cakes. We quickly unpacked our bags and soon found ourselves seated at a huge feast of local foods her mother and sisters had worked all day to prepare. Many of Thu’s father’s friends joined us for dinner and we ate and drank late into the night. I learned that at their table “cheers” wasn’t quite what I knew it to be back home. In my prior experience, everyone clinks their glass and drinks together in a cheers. While it is the same here, if someone asks you directly to cheers it is just for you. Others at the table, even if they are sitting right next to you and have a full glass are not invited to participate and if you raise your glass, you will politely be told to put it down. Local customs are one of the most interesting things to learn along the journey.
Thu’s family had given up their various rooms and all stayed together in one room for the night so we could have our own space. It reminded me of having to sleep on the couch at my grandparent’s house when my extended family would come to visit. I was taught you politely give the guests the most comfortable accommodations. It further proved the kind welcoming sentiment of Vietnam and its people that continues to make this place, so far from anything I have ever known, feel just like home.
The next morning, we were once again greeted with a lavish meal. Contrary to what their small stature might suggest, the Vietnamese people can eat like no other people I have ever seen. I have no idea how they do it! After breakfast and coffee, Carley and I loaded into a car and headed back to the Saigon airport and home to Da Nang. In just 24 hours I would drop Carley at the airport and for the first time in 5 weeks I would be on my own.
